Saturday, July 15, 2017

Part X - Glacier Bay to Warm Springs


July 4 – 5, Flynn Cove

We departed GBNP in a moderately heavy fog and depended on the radar to monitor for the presence of other vessels.  We tried halibut fishing just outside the park but gave up due to strong currents.  We were going to try again on the south side of Icy Strait, but approaching Point Adolphus we saw one boat salmon fishing and decided to try that instead.  The two lines were hardly in the water when we caught our first salmon.  Within an hour we had landed 4: 2 coho and 2 pink. 

A happy Cash with 4 salmon

Once again we anchored in Flynn Cove.  This time we had it all to ourselves except for a grizzly bear that was roaming the beach.

July 5 was possibly the best weather day we’ve had since leaving Everett:  Sunny, blue skies and temperature in the mid-60s.  We had planned on fishing for a while then spending the night in the Tlingit community of Hoonah.  As luck would have it right outside Flynn Cove we started catching salmon.  I was letting Cash reel in all of the fish; however, on one occasion we had fish on both rods and I was forced to land one.  When we had 6 in the boat we decided, over Cash’s strenuous objection, to quit fishing and go back into Flynn Cove to clean, fillet, vacuum pack, and freeze the fish.  Our freezer is filling up fast.

A happier Cash with 5 salmon - me with 1

Tranquility Base (Flynn Cove) at last light

July 6, Hoonah

Another beautiful day!  At Hoonah we stocked up on groceries and Cash finally got the Alaska sneakers (XTRATUF boots) he has been lusting after almost since we picked him up in Ketchikan.  It doesn’t matter what the weather is, you see people walking around town in these boots.





Cash with his XTRATUF boots

July 7, Tenakee Springs

Three nice days in a row.  I could get used to this.  It’s more than 40 miles and 6 plus hours from Hoonah to Tenakee Springs.  If that wasn’t enough to make it a long day, we slowed down to troll for salmon (got skunked) and then anchored in 90 feet of water at the entrance to Tenakee Inlet to fish for halibut.  This is the same place I caught my large halibut in 2011.

After only half an hour of halibut fishing a large fish took the bait and ran with it.  Cash struggled with the fish for about 20 minutes. The fight tired him out just about as much as the fish.  When the fish was finally at the surface I harpooned it then, for good measure, used a flying gaff to secure it.  With the fish subdued, I cut its gills.  Another half hour elapsed before the halibut quit flapping and was safe to bring aboard.  It was after 10 pm before we finished cleaning, vacuum packing and freezing the halibut – a long day.

Cash with his 78 pound halibut (and XTRATUF boots)

July 8, Ell Cove

Ell Cove is a beautiful little anchorage about 40 miles south of Tenakee Springs. Cash and I had planned on taking the dinghy outside the cove to explore.  As luck would have it, however, a pair of eagles distracted us.  I ended up taking over 200 shots and Cash took a bunch more.  The series below shows one eagle picking a fish off the water.










Eagle catching a herring

July 9-11, Warm Springs

Warm Springs is a place we have been looking forward to.  The name really should be “Hot Springs” because that’s the temperature of the water:  You can bathe in a stream in really hot water as well as in private bathrooms in large tubs where the water is constantly running and the temperature is controllable.  Bathing in a hot pool by a waterfall is an unforgettable experience.  My guess is that the hotter of two pools may hit 120 degrees F while the cooler pool is still significantly warmer than the 104 degrees of my hot tub.   

The rooms with the tubs have windows that allow you to see a magnificent waterfall while you soak in warm water.  Linda, Cash, and I tried the pools but like the bath tubs best, so much so that we took multiple baths each day.

Cash luxuriating in a hot pool by a raging stream

Early in the morning I spotted a mink foraging near the water’s edge by the dock and managed to get a couple of shots before it disappeared.  Later in the day we walked up to the beautiful lake and tried some fishing for cutthroat trout.  I managed to catch two in the 8 - 9 inch range which I released. Cash logged much time practicing casting.

We had planned on staying only 2 nights in Warm Springs; however, the weather forecast for Chatham Strait was wind and rain on our planned departure date.  The decision was unanimous: we would stay another day tied up at a dock close to hot tubs. Halibut chowder for dinner.

Mink hunting at low tide in Warm Springs

Fishing a beautiful back country stream

A small cutthroat trout

Community of Baranof, Warm Springs.
Bath house on the right.

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