May 18, Fury Cove
Once again we slept in – all the way till 7:00. After a leisurely breakfast we left Port McNeill and headed across Queen Charlotte Strait with plans to spend the night anchored at Miles Inlet as a prelude for rounding Cape Caution, the first open ocean crossing, tomorrow. The Strait was almost glassy calm for the entire journey. As we approached Miles Inlet I started to wonder about continuing on around Cape Caution. Checking the conditions at West Sea Otter (an ocean buoy) the wind was 8 kts. and seas were 1.1 meters; both within the acceptable range for rounding the Cape. The only concern was a wind forecast of 10 – 15 kts in the afternoon. We decided to risk the wind and made the crossing. The wind did pick up to the forecast 10 – 15 after we passed the Cape and, after a couple of hours, caused a 1 foot chop on top of the 3 foot swell. The ride was not too bad and it was a great relief to round Cape Caution as well as add 70 miles to our progress. We have now been 400 miles out of a total of just over 700. We anchored for the night in Fury Cove with seven other boats including one mega yacht.
Once again we slept in – all the way till 7:00. After a leisurely breakfast we left Port McNeill and headed across Queen Charlotte Strait with plans to spend the night anchored at Miles Inlet as a prelude for rounding Cape Caution, the first open ocean crossing, tomorrow. The Strait was almost glassy calm for the entire journey. As we approached Miles Inlet I started to wonder about continuing on around Cape Caution. Checking the conditions at West Sea Otter (an ocean buoy) the wind was 8 kts. and seas were 1.1 meters; both within the acceptable range for rounding the Cape. The only concern was a wind forecast of 10 – 15 kts in the afternoon. We decided to risk the wind and made the crossing. The wind did pick up to the forecast 10 – 15 after we passed the Cape and, after a couple of hours, caused a 1 foot chop on top of the 3 foot swell. The ride was not too bad and it was a great relief to round Cape Caution as well as add 70 miles to our progress. We have now been 400 miles out of a total of just over 700. We anchored for the night in Fury Cove with seven other boats including one mega yacht.
Cape Caution
May 19, Codville Lagoon
What a great feeling to wake up with one of the big obstacles of the journey behind us. By the time we got up most of the other boats had left. The sun was out, the wind was calm and it was great just to be able to look around this peaceful lagoon with the rocky shoreline broken up with white beaches made up of broken clam shells. Through breaks in the shore we could look out onto Queen Charlotte Sound and see that it too was peaceful. The transit to Codville Lagoon, a provincial marine park, was uneventful. Last time we were here I set out shrimp pots but all I caught was coon striped shrimp so we decided not to go to the effort. We anchored with 3 sailboats in the north end of the lagoon.
What a great feeling to wake up with one of the big obstacles of the journey behind us. By the time we got up most of the other boats had left. The sun was out, the wind was calm and it was great just to be able to look around this peaceful lagoon with the rocky shoreline broken up with white beaches made up of broken clam shells. Through breaks in the shore we could look out onto Queen Charlotte Sound and see that it too was peaceful. The transit to Codville Lagoon, a provincial marine park, was uneventful. Last time we were here I set out shrimp pots but all I caught was coon striped shrimp so we decided not to go to the effort. We anchored with 3 sailboats in the north end of the lagoon.
Hobbit in Fury Cove
May 20, Berry Cove
Once again the day was beautiful with a bright sun and little wind. As we approached Bella Bella we received strong cell tower signals and drifted for a while to check our e-mail and make calls to Melinda and Cash. As we continued on into Milbanke Sound conditions changed; the wind rose to 35 kts. and the sea swells coupled with wind waves were becoming significant. We decided to seek shelter rather than continue on to our destination. There weren’t any really good anchorages nearby but Berry Cove appeared to be suitable. It actually was a charming place to shelter from a storm. As is typical for northern BC, most of the seashore was steep rock covered with rockweed. At the end of the cove there is a small beach and the sound of rushing water from a stream that flowed out of the hills into the ocean. The holding was solid and the wind was only a few knots.
Once again the day was beautiful with a bright sun and little wind. As we approached Bella Bella we received strong cell tower signals and drifted for a while to check our e-mail and make calls to Melinda and Cash. As we continued on into Milbanke Sound conditions changed; the wind rose to 35 kts. and the sea swells coupled with wind waves were becoming significant. We decided to seek shelter rather than continue on to our destination. There weren’t any really good anchorages nearby but Berry Cove appeared to be suitable. It actually was a charming place to shelter from a storm. As is typical for northern BC, most of the seashore was steep rock covered with rockweed. At the end of the cove there is a small beach and the sound of rushing water from a stream that flowed out of the hills into the ocean. The holding was solid and the wind was only a few knots.
May 21 – 23, Khutze Inlet
We decided to leave early today, not crack of dawn early, but we were under way by 6:30. Our goal for today was Khutze Inlet just over 60 miles away. We also decided that, since Ketchikan would only be 4 days away and we had 2 weeks, we would spend two nights there and relax.
We decided to leave early today, not crack of dawn early, but we were under way by 6:30. Our goal for today was Khutze Inlet just over 60 miles away. We also decided that, since Ketchikan would only be 4 days away and we had 2 weeks, we would spend two nights there and relax.
Traveling up Mathieson
Channel we were greeted with one of our favorite sights – thirty or so Dahl’s
porpoise rushed our boat and played around the bow for about 15 minutes before
they tired of the game. Shortly
thereafter we encountered a deer swimming across the nearly mile wide channel.
Dahl’s Porpoise play with Hobbit
Dahl’s Porpoise
Following our programmed
route into Oscar Passage the wind began to rise. Oscar Passage is almost open to Queen
Charlotte Sound where there was a gale warning.
As it hit 20 kts. Linda began reading Waggoner’s, considered the
“boating bible” for cruising this region.
The authors reported that they would never do Oscar Passage again
because, even on a good day, winds and swells could pick up as you get close to
the west end where you are directly exposed to the sea. They suggested Jackson Passage slightly to
the north. The only problem with Jackson
Passage is that the Jackson Narrows need to be traversed at slack water,
preferably high slack. Fortunately, our
timing was perfect. We made an
uneventful passage through the Narrows with Linda on the bow monitoring for
rocks.
Linda stands watch as we enter Jackson
Narrows
Khutze Inlet was a favorite
of ours from our trip to Alaska in 2011.
It is a fairly long inlet with about 5 miles from Princess Royal Channel
to the anchorage. Steep snowcapped
mountains surround us as we travel down the inlet. At the end we are greeted by several
waterfalls, the Khutze River, and a salt marsh.
In July of 2011 crabbing was great.
Hobbit in Khutze Inlet
Shortly after waking on
Monday morning I surveyed the salt marsh with my binoculars. Feeding on the marsh grass were three
grizzlies: A mother and two 3 year old sub adults. Quickly lowering the dinghy and grabbing my
camera, I motored to a couple of hundred yards from them then used the oars to
approach closer. Eventually I just
drifted with the incoming tide and, as the bears did not seem nervous by my
approach, I allowed the dinghy to drift to within 75 – 100 feet of the
trio. Eventually the sow decided to
leave and, much to my dismay, entered the water less than 75 feet from me. At this point I used the oars to back off
even though she wasn’t swimming towards me.
The young bears followed.
Hobbit and two grizzly bears
Barrows Goldeneye strutting for a mate – Khutze Inlet
In the afternoon people came
over from another boat just to say hello.
He was a retired DFO contractor who worked in Canadian fisheries
management. Because they had a satellite
system, they had a weather forecast and told us that we wouldn’t be crossing to
Dundas Island or across Dixon Entrance Thursday or Friday as high winds were
forecast. They also let us know that it
would be raining all day tomorrow. With
this information in hand coupled with the fact that we had 13 days to get to
Ketchikan and only needed 4, we decided to spend a third night at Khutze Inlet.
The rain forecast was
certainly correct. We woke to a soaking
rain as well as light fog which restricted visibility; definitely not a day you
would want to travel. The order of the
day was for Linda to paint the mountains and clouds/fog/mist wafting around and
for me to work on my journal and photographs.
I also had to pull the crab pots in the rain: Got my limit!
Khutze Inlet in the rain and fog
Nice catch of crab
Rainy, but a good day. I couldn’t keep
the crabs away
May 24, Bishop Bay
We left at dawn today for the planned trip to Lowe Inlet. The weather was calm when we started but by late morning the wind had risen to 10-15 kts. Looking through the binoculars as we approached Wright Sound I could see that the water was a froth and that winds were probably in the 25-30 kt. range. Discretion being the better part of valor, we turned around and spent the night in Bishop Bay which has a hot spring. Unfortunately Linda’s burned foot prevented her from enjoying the warm water – but it certainly felt good to me.
We left at dawn today for the planned trip to Lowe Inlet. The weather was calm when we started but by late morning the wind had risen to 10-15 kts. Looking through the binoculars as we approached Wright Sound I could see that the water was a froth and that winds were probably in the 25-30 kt. range. Discretion being the better part of valor, we turned around and spent the night in Bishop Bay which has a hot spring. Unfortunately Linda’s burned foot prevented her from enjoying the warm water – but it certainly felt good to me.
Relaxing in Bishop Hot Springs
No comments:
Post a Comment