Broughtons with Cathy and Kent

June 21, 2013, Ganges

We departed Friday Harbor with a solid overcast but little wind. As usual, customs in Bedwell Harbour was quick and painless.  We arrived in Ganges in the early afternoon and went to shore for the obligatory ice cream, liquor, and groceries.  I also picked up my fishing license. 

June 22, 2013, Nanaimo

Because slack current through the Dodd Narrows wasn’t until late in the afternoon, we were able to spend time wandering around Ganges in the morning.  Since it was Saturday, the craft and farmers market was open and we spent some time wandering through it.  I also wanted to try Barb’s Buns which is a bakery recommended by Waggoner’s.  While the pastry was good, Barb’s is not in the same league as Holly B’s on Lopez Island.

Linda, Wally, Cathy, and Kent at Nanaimo Yacht Club

The trip to Nanaimo was uneventful except that who would have guessed that most of the water between Dodd Narrows and Ganges floods south even though Dodd Narrows floods north.  As Murphy would have it, we had a current against us almost all day.  Several spots were open at the Nanaimo Yacht Club so we were able to use our reciprocals.   We spotted Deo Volente at the anchorage as we were coming in and were able to talk with Ruth Hollenberg on the radio.  Ralph came over by dinghy a couple of hours later for a great reunion.

June 23, 2013, Westview

We left Nanaimo at first light on a calm but overcast morning.  After crossing the Strait of Georgia we decided to continue on to Westview rather than make our planned stop at Garden Bay in Pender Harbor.  By the time we arrived it was raining slightly, nevertheless I made my annual pilgrimage to Save-on-Foods to buy a stash of Overweight Tea.

June 24, 2013, Squirrel Cove

There was moderate rain and wind as we were preparing to depart Westview.  The Environment Canada forecast on the weather radio was for a strong wind warning for the Strait of Georgia starting in the afternoon.  Cathy insisted that her half of Contessa was staying at the dock and Linda wasn’t too keen on going either.  Nevertheless, they lost the duel and we departed in fairly hard rain and 10 – 15 kts. of wind.  As the wind and 1 ft. sea were largely on our stern the ride wasn’t too bad.

Soon after passing Lund we were in the lee of islands which made the wind and seas much calmer.  For their first stop in Desolation Sound we took Kent and Cathy to Refuge Cove for ice cream.  Half a dozen boats were already anchored in Squirrel Cove when we arrived – a small number compared to what it will be a month from now.

June 25, 2013, Shoal Bay

The passage through the Yuculta and Dent rapids were uneventful.  We entered the Yuculta’s about half an hour before slack and passed through the Dent rapids when the current was close to zero. 

Contessa in the Yuculta rapids

At Shoal Bay I tried to anchor but couldn’t get the anchor to hold.  When a space opened up at the government dock I tried to tie up but the wind just kept pushing me away.  Eventually I brought Hobbit to the end of the dock heading 90 degrees from the way I wanted to be.  We were then able to pass the mid and stern lines to people on the dock who wanted to help.  They pulled hobbit around the corner against and against the dock.  After we tied up, Contessa came in and rafted without too much trouble.  What a difference it makes in the wind to have a large keel and be low to the water.

Shoal Bay has a very small community of people who are very friendly and accommodating to boaters.  We enjoyed pleasant conversation at the pub and took a short walk through a well manicured vegetable garden.

Shoal Bay vegetable garden with shovel sculpture

Cathy and Linda exploring the Shoal Bay greenhouse

June 26, 2013, Port Neville

As planned, we got up at 4:00 in the morning with every intention of starting the engines and heading straight for the remaining rapids.  Unfortunately, it was overcast and pitch black.  Kent and I talked it over briefly and decided that not being able to see logs was abort criteria and we went back to bed.

After sleeping in, I went back to the tide and current tables and suggested bypassing the Green Point and Whirlpool rapids by going into Johnston Strait and through Race Passage.  Everything was in our favor: the wind at Fanny Island was only 4 kts., the current would be with us all the way, and we would hit Race Passage near slack.  We averaged nearly 8 kts. for the trip on a largely calm Johnston Strait and anchored about 2 miles inside Port Neville.

June 27, 2013, Lagoon Cove

The trip to Lagoon Cove was uneventful although there was a brisk breeze behind us in Johnston Strait and it rained most of the time.  Rain and wind notwithstanding, we set prawn traps just before entering the marina.  Lagoon Cove is very interesting in that they can rapidly pull up the history of all boats who have moored there in the past.  Apparently our last time was 2003.  I’m sure we’ve anchored in the vicinity 2 or 3 times since then although that wouldn’t be on their card.  Bill Barber, one half of the couple that owns Lagoon Cove, died this past April and his wife, Jean, is carrying on with help from Pat Kuruz and Ness who have been caretakers for years. 

Linda at Lagoon Cove “totem pole”

Even though it was wet, cool, and rainy, Linda, Cathy, Kent, and I took a short walk through the woods.  Linda and Cathy even enjoyed some adult sized swings hanging from a large branch.  After our walk we enjoyed the traditional evening pot-luck with Lagoon Cove providing prawns is continuing.  At tonight’s get together Pat and Jean waxed historically about Bill and Lagoon Cove. Interestingly, the four of us, independently bought matching red Lagoon Cove jackets.

Lagoon Cove sunset with Contessa on the right

June 28, 2013, Port Elizabeth

It was raining when we got up and it rained all day long.  We caught enough shrimp in our three traps to provide the basis for wonderful pasta.  I also caught a small octopus with about a 3 foot arm spread; it was cleaned and put in a spicy marinade.

After departing Lagoon Cove we went to Port Elizabeth in part because the wind came up and we needed a place to anchor for the night, and in part because Ralph Hollenberg recommended it for prawns.  Our pots were set in about 325 feet of water with the wind blowing 15 kts. and seas of a foot or more.  It was calm where we anchored in the southwest part of the bay, but we sat in a soaking rain till nightfall.  I used the prawn heads from this morning’s catch to bait two crab pots.  Wagoner’s doesn’t recommend Port Elizabeth, but we found it delightful.

Hobbit and Contessa rafted in Port Elizabeth

June 29, 2013, Mamalilaculla

Sun at last, sun at last, sun at last!!!  We had resolved to get up and leave Port Elizabeth in an orderly fashion but ended up luxuriating in the sun.  It was mid morning when the rising breeze finally prompted us to weigh anchor and depart.  I got perhaps two dozen crabs in the two pots I set out but only had 2 keepers.  Picking up the shrimp pots proved to be a real challenge as the wind was now quite brisk and white caps dotted the exposed part of the bay where the pots were set.  Kent and Cathy only got 6 prawns.  We did a lot better but still didn’t do particularly well. 

Surprisingly, in Knight Inlet the wind was much calmer and we were expecting a relaxing trip to Port McNeil.  Linda, however, after looking at the time, suggested we postpone Port McNeil since there wouldn’t be enough time to get there and do all the planned activities.  Anchoring in the Village Island group seemed the best option.  Our first choice was behind Goat Island, but two boats were already anchored and our presence would just destroy the solitude.  Linda had been talking about Mamalilaculla and lamenting that the First Nations people were now charging to go ashore even though there was little to see.  We just looked through the binoculars and then anchored in our customary spot on the south side of Village Island.  Quite a few commercial crab pots were out and we added 4 more baited with shrimp heads.

By mid afternoon the wind came up with gusts to 20 kts.  I’m sure we dragged for awhile, but eventually the anchor dug in.  I even took the step of putting one of the crab pots between us and shore so we would have a good way to monitor our position.

Our evening meal with the Kent and Cathy has become quite enjoyable: good food, good company, and sometimes a video.  Tonight we watched 4 episodes of the Big Bang Theory.  After the gathering broke up and Linda went to bed, I stepped outside for awhile to enjoy the environment and the silence.  From Hobbit we can see the snowcapped mountains of Vancouver Island and many small islands in this beautiful archipelago.  The wind had totally subsided and I can’t ever remember a time when the environment was quieter – you have to go into a sound booth if you want more silence.  Occasionally I heard a faint slap of water lapping against Hobbit, but otherwise just peaceful tranquility.

June 30 – July 1, 2013, Port McNeill

The peace of last night continued although the morning was overcast.  Fog was scattered throughout the islands and the mountains of Vancouver Island were partly obscured with low clouds.  An occasional light rain shower passed by us yet we could see patches of blue sky. 

Early morning panorama at Mamalilaculla

Kent and I took Hobbit’s dinghy out to pick up the crab traps.  The two with day-old shrimp heads only caught a sunflower starfish each.  Both of the traps with fresh shrimp heads caught numerous Dungeness crabs although only 2 were legal.

Departing Mamalilaculla we wound our way through the Village Islands and out into Blackfish Sound where we encountered moderate fog that stayed with us all the way to Port McNeill.  At one point a small fishing boat came out of the fog at high speed and passed just in front of us.  I wonder if it had any idea we were there as the visibility at the time was less than ¼ mile based on the radar.

For lunch we went to a highly recommended pub for burgers or fish & chips.  Much to our dismay, when the fish arrived we learned that the pub didn’t have malt vinegar and appeared surprised that we would want it.  The fish & chips were well prepared, but without malt vinegar the meal was totally lackluster. 

By consensus we decided to spend two nights at Port McNeill just so we could relax from the pattern of getting up every morning and going.  The down side of our timing was that we arrived on Sunday and Monday, July 1^st was Canada day.  As a result, most of the stores were closed for both days of our visit.  Other than the normal chores of doing the laundry and shopping for food we mainly just lolled around and relaxed.

July 2, 2013, Cullen Harbor

Pea soup fog greeted us as we woke.  Slowly it lifted and we were able to depart Port McNeill mid morning.  One final activity before leaving was to take pictures of “The Four Redcoats” in front of Contessa and Hobbit wearing our Lagoon Cove jackets. 

Kent, Cathy, Linda and Wally in front of Contessa and Hobbit at Port McNeill.  We’re all wearing Lagoon Cove jackets

July 3, 2014, Booker Lagoon

Linda’s birthday!  I surprised her by placing a card and some DaVinci Maestro watercolor brushes in front of her coffee pot.  After thanking me she said what she really wanted was some cod fish for dinner so, after breakfast, I went just outside Cullen Harbor and within 10 minutes caught a 34 inch, 16 pound ling.  My guess is that the area gets very little fishing pressure because it is far from a population center and fishing is prohibited within the lagoon and much of the area outside it.  Because of the fishing opportunities and shelter from the wind, we will make Cullen Harbor a regular anchorage on our trips north.  For Linda’s birthday desert we had hot brownies and ice cream.

The beautiful tree lined passage separating Cullen Harbor from Booker Lagoon is shallow and only about 50 feet wide.  The entrance is guarded by a very attractive inukshuk signaling tranquility and friendship. As the small passage has a peak current of about 7 kts. we took a familiarization tour in the dinghies through it and into Booker Lagoon about an hour before slack current.  It’s incredible to have such a large, peaceful body of water all to yourself.  What a difference from cruising in the San Juans.

The entry into Booker Lagoon was pleasant as well as beautiful.  We set our shrimp traps in the one 300 ft. hole and anchored for the night.  I set out 4 crab traps using the skeleton of the ling cod as bait.  Given the rocky nature of the shoreline, I don’t hold out much hope for crabs.  Checking the traps in the evening I caught 1 Dungeness and 2 sunflower starfish.

Wally with ling cod caught outside Cullen Harbor

Every evening Linda and Cathy get together to see what feast they can devise by combining larders.  They almost always come up with something that is 5 stars.  For Linda’s birthday dinner we finished off the prawns in a pasta and had a wonderful salad on the side.  Hot brownies and ice cream were for desert.  By request of Linda and Cathy we watched the comedy “This is 40” after dinner.

Inukshuk welcoming visitors to Booker Lagoon

July 4 and 5, 2013, Laura Bay

July 4^th, Independence Day, and not another boat in sight.  It’s so beautiful and peaceful in Booker Lagoon that we hate to leave.  Nevertheless, Kent and Cathy have only 3 more nights in the Broughtons before heading home and want to see as much of the archipelago as possible.  The prawn traps we picked up on the way out were loaded; we got our limit of 200 while Kent and Cathy got a respectable haul.

There have been near constant high wind warnings in Queen Charlotte Strait for the past week.  The mornings are calm but a NW breeze of 15 – 25 kts. comes up every afternoon.  By bed time the wind subsides and we have quiet, peaceful nights.  As we entered Queen Charlotte Strait, it was covered with white caps from the 15 – 20 kt. wind.  Accompanying the white caps were waves of 1 – 2 feet.  The ride was initially uncomfortable as Hobbit rocked back and forth but not too bad as we turned 90 degrees into Fife Sound and put the wind and waves on our stern.

Our stopping point for the night was Laura Bay which is on the east end of Broughton Island.  Wagoner’s and North of Desolation both spoke highly of the anchorage so we were quite surprised at its small size when we entered too late in the afternoon to go anywhere else.  Clearly stern tying was required.  I had hoped to demonstrate a flawless “how to” for Kent and Cathy, but Hobbit had other ideas.  We set the anchor and got the stern line to shore without problem, but the breeze kept causing Hobbit to turn nearly 90 degrees from the orientation we needed.  I kept pulling Hobbit back into position from shore but couldn’t get the stern line back before he was out of position.  Finally, Kent came to the rescue in his dinghy and took the line back to Hobbit while I held the boat in position.

Small though it may be, Laura Bay provides a soothing environment that you just don’t want to leave.  In the morning after luxuriating in the peace and tranquility for a few hours, Cathy suggested we stay put and relax for the day.  With no travel planned, I got in the dinghy and went fishing.  Unfortunately, while running at high speed about a mile from Hobbit the outboard just quit.  I started it back up without a problem but it quit again when I went to a high power setting.  Fortunately the motor would run ok at idle speed and I was able to get back to Hobbit without using the oars.

In the mean time, Cathy had decided to try jigging for fish off the side of Contessa and was having a ball.  By the time I returned, she had two starry flounder and a black rockfish - I was skunked.  Kent and I spent the next hour unsuccessfully trying to figure out what was wrong with the outboard. 

Using the skeletons from Cathy’s fish plus a rockfish I caught, two crab pots were baited and set nearby.  Over the next several hours I caught about 25 Dungeness crabs of which only three were male and only one of those was legal.

Five star dinner at Laura Bay

Hobbit stern tied with Contessa rafted

July 6, 2013, Pierre’s Echo Bay

One of the things cruisers in the Broughton archipelago need to do at least once is go to Pierre’s for the Saturday roast pig pot luck.  Checking that one on the “I’ve done that” box for Kent and Cathy was our last joint activity. 

On the way from Laura Bay to Pierre’s we encountered a large feeding frenzy with hundreds of birds: Gulls, rhinoceros auklets, and even eagles swooping down and dropping their talons into the water. We couldn’t see what was driving the herring to the surface but, on the hope that it was salmon, we stopped to fish.  While casting, a minke whale surfaced for air only 100 feet from Hobbit.  Unfortunately we got no fish but the sight of all the wildlife was awesome.

Feeding frenzy in Raleigh Passage: Note herring in gull beaks

The meal at Pierre’s was great and because it is early in the season, the marina wasn’t full.  Consequently, there was enough for bountiful seconds and even some pulled pork to take back to Hobbit.  Pierre’s has two important downsides; we found his water is full of tannins and has to be boiled to drink and his prices have become quite high.  If you have to boil the dark water, why would you want to take a shower or wash your clothes in it?  $20 for electricity makes Pierre’s by far the most I’ve ever paid.

Pierre inspecting the roasted pig

July 7, 2013, Goat Island

Departing Pierre’s this morning was sad.  After saying our goodbyes, Kent and Cathy turned south for home while Linda and I headed towards Port McNeill where we hope to get the outboard repaired.  On the way out we all picked up shrimp pots set the night before; both boats got a few but nothing to write home about.  Certainly a great difference from the 5 gallon bucket full I got here years ago when Linda and I cruised with the Navy Yacht Club.  I never thought I’d feel like 7 ½ kts. was fast, but after traveling at 6 to 6 ½ kts. with Contessa, 7 ½ kts. feels like I’m blazing along at high speed.

Gale warnings were forecast for Johnston Strait while high wind warnings were forecast for Queen Charlotte Strait.  As our route became exposed to the wind and waves from Queen Charlotte Strait I could tell that continuing on to Port McNeill was probably not a good choice and altered course for the Village Islands.

Crossing Knight Inlet we encountered a large pod of Pacific white sided dolphins.  We have seen this species of dolphins almost every day since first entering Johnston Strait.  Unfortunately they have never been in a playful mood and haven’t frolicked on our bow wave. Seeking shelter from strong NW winds, we chose Goat Island.  Even though the bay is protected from NW winds, we still were bouncing around with gusts to about 20 kts.  Queen Charlotte Strait must be a churning maelstrom. 

Contessa departing Pierre’s Echo Bay

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